A Nostalgic & Cozy Izakaya-Diner in Hirosaki’s Dote-machi

Whether you crave Tsugaru regional dishes, old favorites once loved by author Osamu Dazai, or more modern fare, Dodeno Meheyakko serves them all. Combining a charmingly retro Showa-era vibe with affordable prices and a huge menu, it’s loved by locals of all ages—from seasoned regulars to students. Let’s take a closer look at this popular spot!

A Newcomer on Dote-machi with a Timeless Feel

Although Dodeno Meheyakko looks like it’s been around forever, it actually opened in April 2019, celebrating its 4th anniversary this spring.

“An owner I often drank with said, ‘We should open a place where we’d really want to go—a spot that feels azumashii.’ We both agreed,” says manager Yūko Sawada, fondly called “Yu-ko Tencho” by the regulars. The Tsugaru dialect word azumashii is famously tricky to translate; it suggests a comfortable, homey atmosphere—like being in your own living room.

Sawada and her friends loved going out for drinks, but they felt many bars had closed or changed, leaving them with fewer places they genuinely wanted to visit. Their solution? “If we can’t find what we like, let’s create it ourselves.” Sawada admits she was initially nervous because she was juggling another job and had a child to raise. Even more surprising: neither the owner nor Sawada had any experience in the food and beverage industry.

“The timing was uncanny. My mother had just left her job due to company restructuring. We’d always had a lively home—lots of guests, and Mom would cook for everyone. People raved about her dishes, so I thought, ‘Why not invite her to run the restaurant with us?’” While she loved cooking for large groups, Sawada’s mother also had zero professional kitchen experience. Yet in 2018, the three newbies decided to give it a shot.

They searched for a suitable location, preferring to build from scratch rather than renovate an existing structure. When they encountered the current Dote-machi site, it felt like fate. “As a child, going to Dote-machi was a treat. It was such a lively and appealing part of town. Building here felt exciting.”

The plot is long and narrow, often called “unagi no nedoko” (an eel’s bed). Although the frontage is small, it extends far back. As Sawada recalls, “We did as much as we could ourselves—like laying out the design, plastering the walls. Friends pitched in. It was actually fun.” Finally, in April 2019, Dodeno Meheyakko opened its doors.

Stepping Inside: A Retro Showa-Era World That Feels Both New & Familiar

The aim of Dodeno Meheyakko is to be an izakaya-diner where people can eat and drink comfortably (azumashiku). The interior fully embraces a “Showa retro” aesthetic, displaying vintage signs, toys, knickknacks, and shelves with a well-worn character.

“The owner is actually an antique collector, so acquiring old items was easy. We just decorated it in the style that relaxes us, and it ended up feeling nostalgic,” says Sawada. Interestingly, younger guests say it reminds them of visiting their grandparents’ house.

Because the building occupies a long, narrow plot, the tables in the back can’t really be seen from the kitchen. There are no standard call-buttons on each table; instead, guests can ring various small instruments or noisemakers to get the staff’s attention. Each table has a distinct sound, so the staff know exactly who’s calling. The effect is vintage and quite charming.

First-time visitors often find themselves overwhelmed by the massive menu. In addition to the main offerings, there’s a daily specials board filled with many choices. Sawada laughs, saying some customers take forever to place their first order.

“There’s a regular who comes almost every day. We keep expanding the menu so they’ll never get bored.” Sawada and her mom are the only ones cooking, meaning the more dishes they offer, the harder they work. Yet they can’t bring themselves to cut anything.

Among the most popular items are:

• Rolled omelet with natto (fermented soybeans)
• Grilled buttered shiitake mushrooms (from nearby Owani town)
• Homemade mustard-pickled cucumber

“It’s basically home cooking. We have guests who say it reminds them of nostalgic flavors, and that makes me happy.” Another draw is the easy access to Tsugaru regional cuisine. Items like Ishikawa red sausage, keno-jiru (vegetable soup), and kai-yaki miso with scallops are popular with tourists.

For newbies overwhelmed by the selection, Sawada recommends three dishes:

1. Sujiko Natto Gohan: Salt-cured salmon roe with natto—loved by author Osamu Dazai and featured on TV.
2. Iga Menchi: A local Tsugaru specialty—deep-fried patties made from chopped squid and veggies. Recipes vary by household.
3. Nibo-nibo Yaki Udon: Fried udon noodles with a generous sprinkling of dried sardine powder.
   If you’re feeling stuck, give these a try!

A Relaxed Place Built by Customers, Together

Some might worry that a local izakaya with many regulars has a cliquish vibe—but Sawada assures that Dodeno Meheyakko’s regulars are all welcoming. For instance, once she arranged a little birthday surprise for a reserved group—playing a birthday song and bringing out a small dessert. “The whole place lit up. Everyone celebrated together, even strangers. People got up to say happy birthday at their table; others raised a toast. The sense of unity was amazing.”

With fairly low prices, students often visit. It’s not unusual to see folks of all ages mingling. “I love it when seasoned adults and young first-timers share the same space, enjoying the same things.”

While the retro decor helps create that azumashii vibe, so do the customers themselves—chatting, sharing food, having fun. “Our place is casual enough for someone to come in wearing a sweatshirt and rubber boots. We just want people to relax, enjoy a meal, and leave with a smile.”

Reflecting on the Past & Looking Ahead

Sawada was surprised when friends told her “You’ve realized your dream!” upon Dodeno Meheyakko’s opening. “I’d completely forgotten, but in high school, I supposedly said, ‘I’d like to run a restaurant one day.’” Then she remembered something else: “In my grade-school essays, I wrote I wanted a place serving food, filled with little trinkets. That’s exactly what Heyakko is now—a cozy izakaya with a ton of knickknacks. I got goosebumps when it dawned on me that I’d achieved that childhood dream.”

She didn’t spend years striving for it; it just came together naturally. So, what’s next for Dodeno Meheyakko? “Now that things are opening up more, we’ve started hosting talk shows and small live music events. It’s fun for the performers and the audience to share the same meal. That might be our style—an event that feels very ‘Heyakko.’”

Sawada also wants to make sure solo female diners feel comfortable stopping by. Note, the place allows smoking, so it may not be ideal for families with small children. Nevertheless, it’s a lively spot for any age or group. Expect Dodeno Meheyakko to keep pleasing appetites and hearts, bringing energy to Dote-machi for years to come.

Shop Info

• Name: Dodeno Meheyakko
• Location: 101 Dote-machi, Hirosaki-shi, Aomori 036-8182
• Hours: 17:00–23:00 (Last order 22:30)
• Closed: Sundays (plus occasional irregular holidays)
• Tel: 090-3121-6458
• Official:Instagram

Other Notes:

• Reserve by phone at the number above.
• They are not currently taking reservations for late-night times, as seats are limited.
• If you call before you arrive on the same day, they can let you know about seat availability.