Exploring the Legacy of Osamu Dazai – A Literary Pilgrimage in Hirosaki & Beyond

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Publication on:March 6, 2025

For literature enthusiasts, Hirosaki and its surroundings offer a special opportunity to trace the footsteps of the renowned writer Osamu Dazai.

From his childhood home to cafés he frequented and dishes he loved, this guide introduces Dazai-related sites and souvenirs that will make your pilgrimage even more memorable!


Step into Dazai’s World – Visiting His Former Homes

You can still visit the houses where Osamu Dazai once lived and feel the atmosphere of his life.


Shayokan – Osamu Dazai Memorial Hall

  • 📍 Location: 412-1 Asahiyama, Kanagi-machi, Goshogawara City, Aomori
  • Phone: 0173-53-2020
  • Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Last entry at 4:30 PM)
  • 🗓 Closed: December 29
  • 🔗 Website: Shayokan Official Site

Shayokan, one of the most significant Dazai-related sites, is a must-visit for any literary traveler.

💡 Why Visit?

  • Built in 1907, this mansion spans 680 tsubo (approx. 2,250 square meters), featuring 11 rooms on the first floor and 8 on the second.
  • The house showcases extensive use of Hiba wood, making it an architectural gem designated as a National Important Cultural Property.
  • Dazai lived here until he moved to Aomori City for school.

He described the house in his book The Years of Distress (Kunou no Nenkan):

"My father built an excessively large house. It has no charm, just sheer size."

The hall exhibits Dazai’s writing tools, manuscripts, and personal belongings, offering a glimpse into his life and creative process.


Osamu Dazai Manabino Ie

  • 📍 Location: 9-35 Miyuki-cho, Hirosaki City, Aomori
  • Phone: 0172-39-1134
  • Hours: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
  • 🗓 Closed: December 29 – January 3
  • 🔗 Website: Osamu Dazai Manabino Ie Official Site

This historically valuable house is where Dazai lived for three years while attending Hirosaki High School.

💡 What to Expect?

  • The house is a rare example of Taisho-era "central corridor style" architecture.
  • Visitors can step inside his actual 6-tatami room and hear guided explanations about his life here.
  • Occasional literary readings and performances are held at the house.

Admission is free, making this a great stop for any Dazai fan!


Savor the Flavors Dazai Loved

Several cafés and restaurants still serve dishes beloved by Osamu Dazai.


Dote no Coffee-ya Manchan – Dazai Blend Coffee

  • 📍 Location: 36-6 Dote-machi, Hirosaki City, Aomori
  • Phone: 0172-55-6888
  • Hours: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM
  • 🗓 Closed: Tuesdays & Wednesdays
  • 🔗 Website: Manchan Official Site

Established in 1929, this classic café is one of the oldest coffeehouses in Japan.

💡 Why Visit?

  • Dazai frequented this café during his high school years.
  • The shop serves the “Dazai Blend” coffee, recreating the rich, slightly bitter flavor he enjoyed.
  • Other renowned artists and writers such as Yojiro Ishizaka and Gosei Abe also visited.

The nostalgic ambiance and classical music make it the perfect place to immerse yourself in Dazai’s literary world.


Dodeno Meheyakko – Sujiko Natto

  • 📍 Location: 101 Dote-machi, Hirosaki City, Aomori
  • Phone: 090-3121-6458
  • Hours: 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM (Last order 10:30 PM)
  • 🗓 Closed: Sundays & occasional holidays
  • 🔗 Instagram: @dodenomeheyakko

💡 Why Visit?

  • The retro izakaya atmosphere transports you back in time.
  • Dazai loved sujiko natto (fermented soybeans with salted salmon roe).
  • He even mentioned in No Longer Human (Ningen Shikkaku):

"As long as I had sujiko natto, I needed nothing else."

This dish combines savory, umami-packed sujiko with sticky natto and seaweed, creating a unique texture and deep flavor.


Taste Tsugaru – Wakaou Kombu Rice Ball

  • 📍Where to Buy: Ajishin Sushi Restaurant, Hirosaki Station Bento Corner
  • 📍Location: 3-4-3 Miyakawa, Hirosaki City, Aomori
  • Phone: 0172-34-8000
  • Hours: Lunch: 11:00 AM – 2:00 PM, Dinner: 5:00 PM – 9:30 PM (Last order 9:00 PM)
  • 🔗 Website: Ajishin Official Site

💡 Why Try?

  • Wakaou Kombu (young kelp) is soft and delicate, wrapping rice with a hint of sea salt.
  • Dazai often ate it as a late-night snack.
  • A simple yet nostalgic taste of Tsugaru.

Souvenirs Inspired by Osamu Dazai


“Umarete Sumi Ma” Senbei

source:https://omicole.net/aomori/omiyage/detail/7130
  • 📍 Where to Buy: Kanagi Tourist Center, Train Stations, Souvenir Shops
  • 🔗 Website: Hachinoheya

💡 Why Buy?

  • Features Dazai’s famous phrase:"I was born. I’m sorry."
  • Charcoal-infused crackers with squid ink & sesame – a unique Aomori specialty.

"Tsugaru" Cookies by Ragueneau

source:https://aspam.jp/item/662/

💡 Why Buy?

  • Inspired by Dazai’s novel Tsugaru.
  • Apple-flavored cookies with a soft, crumbly texture.
  • Comes with a bookmark featuring Dazai’s handwritten apple sketch.

Tsugaru Apple Wine

source:https://shop.toki-apple.com/items/63941638

💡 Why Try?

  • A re-creation of Dazai’s favorite apple wine, mentioned in Tsugaru.
  • Mild 7% alcohol with a light fizz, perfect for casual drinkers.

Final Thoughts

This guide has introduced the ultimate Dazai pilgrimage—from his former homes and favorite cafés to souvenirs celebrating his literary legacy.

Visiting these sites and tasting these flavors will bring you closer to the world of Osamu Dazai.

Step into his footsteps, and experience the life of one of Japan’s greatest literary minds.

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